Mirador Bandurrias
Argentina Destinos

Conociendo San Martín de los Andes

En medio de una revolución personal, de dudas, miedos y cambios, surgió la posibilidad de irme una semana a San Martín de los Andes.

De chica había pasado por la ciudad como parte de un itinerario cargado en un viaje que hice con mi papá, mi hermano menor, mi tío y mis primos. Pocos recuerdos tenía, más que nada del Camino de los Siete Lagos, el viento, la tormenta y un árbol cayendo justo adelante de nuestro auto en la ruta.

El 14 de abril de 2017 tomé un vuelo de Aerolíneas Argentinas desde el Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. Lo saqué canjeando millas que había acumulado en mi cuenta de Viajero Frecuente, el programa de nuestra aerolínea de bandera que cuenta con alianza SkyteamTiene promociones muy buenas, mi pasaje terminó saliendo únicamente el valor de los impuestos

San Martín de los Andes se encuentra en el sudoeste de Neuquén, sobre la costa del Lago Lácar, un lago glaciario que corre a contramano. En su final se convierte en el Río Huahum y llega hasta el Océano Pacífico, motivo que generó disputas territoriales entre Argentina Chile.

El otoño es una época hermosa para visitar la ciudad encerrada entre montañas ya que los árboles van tomando diferentes tonalidades. Todo el lugar es una pintura en tonos rojos, naranjas, violetas, amarillos y verdes.

Hospedaje

Durante mi estadía me hospedé en una cabaña del complejo Rose Garden ubicado a una cuadra del lago y una cuadra y media de la estación de micros. Es cálido y con buena atención. Tiene servicio de limpieza, cocina equipada, calefacción, televisión y artículos de higiene. Además puede realizarse un Late Check Out.

Para comer

La gastronomía es uno de los puntos fuertes del lugar. Los chocolates, las cervezas y las carnes son los imperdibles.

El Almacén de Flores: Lo visité en dos oportunidades. Tiene una ambientación hermosa, desde la decoración hasta la música que suena. El personal es muy atento y agradable. En cuanto al menú, se especializa en desayunos y meriendas pero ofrece opciones de almuerzo. Las porciones son abundantes y la calidad de sus tortas es increíble. Recomendación: Té con tostadas de pan casero, queso y mermeladas, Cheesecake y chocolate caliente.

Pizza Cala: Un clásico atendido al mítico grito de “Empleado! gracias!”. Empanadas y pizzas riquísimas, pero riquísimas de verdad. Muchas variedades y la posibilidad de hacer mitad/mitad cuando, como me pasa a mi, no te podes poner de acuerdo o no sabes cuál de todas elegir. Recomendación: pizza de cuatro quesos.

Mamusia: El frío no debe ser impedimento para tomar helado. Además de chocolates, Mamusia ofrece helados muy ricos. Recomendación: el 1/4 que viene con tops de chocolates artesanales.

Casa de té Arrayan: Otro clásico del lugar. Ir a la tarde es espectacular porque se puede ver un atardecer hermoso desde la altura. Está muy cerca del mirador que lleva el mismo nombre y su especialidad son las variedades de te en hebras.

DATO SOBRE COMPRAS: San Martín de los Andes es un pueblo libre de bolsas plásticas, es importante llevar eco bolsas, mochilas grandes o cajas.

Para conocer

Traful

Además de un pintoresco centro, San Martín tienen muchos senderos para hacer trekking. En la oficina de turismo explican todo lo necesario: horarios, duraciones y dificultades de cada uno.

Mirador Arrayán: Es uno de los puntos panorámicos más lindos. Desde ahí se puede observar toda la ciudad y el lago. Se puede llegar a él en auto, bicicleta o caminando por la ruta provincial 19. Es un camino en parte asfaltado y en parte de ripio, que va subiendo con curvas.

Mirador Bandurrias: Es un recorrido largo que se realiza por medio de una montaña, en medio de una comunidad mapuche, siguiendo las marcas de pintura en los árboles. Son aproximadamente 3 km de caminata. A veces se cobra entrada. El mirador ofrece una vista del otro lado del lago Lácar. Siguiendo ese camino también se llega a Los Miradores, que ofrecen una vista frontal de la Ciudad y del lago.

La Islita: Mi preferido. Se llega siguiendo camino después del Bandurrias. En total son 6 km de caminata desde el centro de San Martín. Desde la playa se ve la isla rocosa, con algunos árboles, a la cual se puede llegar nadando, pero el lago es muy, muy frío.

Camino de los 7 lagos:  Se debe hacer en auto, bicicleta (si sos aventurero) o contratando un tour, que fue lo hice yo. Hay muchas agencias de turismo que ofrecen diferentes opciones, podés recorrerlas, preguntar y elegir la que más se acomoda a tu disponibilidad o contratar la excursión antes de viajar con Civitatis. El que realicé hacía un recorrido en camioneta por los siete lagos y una cascada con paradas fotográficas. Luego llegaba hasta Villa La Angostura donde se hacía una parada de caminata por las Bahías y luego un tiempo para almorzar o recorrer la ciudad libremente. El viaje seguía hasta Villa Traful con parada en el Mirador del Viento y luego tiempo libre para disfrutar del pueblo, su hermosa Iglesia de madera, sus muelles y una casa de chocolate tradicional. 

Lago Lolog: Si no se cuenta con automóvil se puede llegar tomando el colectivo de línea que sale desde la terminal de micros. Lo ideal es pasar el día por lo que se puede salir en el de la mañana y volver en el servicio de las 16:00. El pasaje se paga con tarjeta y se compra en la misma estación. Una vez que se llega al pueblito hay un restaurante que también funciona de despensa y carga agua caliente para el mate. DATO: venden cervezas artesanales e importadas muy ricas.Desde la puerta del restaurante hacia la derecha se puede caminar para acceder al Lolog, es muy lindo pero con una playa muy ventosa. Además gran parte de la misma es parte de terrenos privados. Para la izquierda, caminando unas pocas cuadras, se cruza un puente y se llega hasta un arroyito donde está el río. Hacia el final hay una zona de descanso con vista a la montaña.


Otras excursiones para hacer desde San Martín de la mano de Civitatis

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