mural de Getsemani
Destinos Resto del mundo

Getsemaní, uno de los barrios más cool del mundo

Quizás cuando a alguien le dicen que un lugar fue calificado como uno de los “más cool del mundo para vivir”, se imagina construcciones minimalistas, tecnología y modernidad. Pero Getsemaní es todo lo contrario y se gana su nombre por la forma en la que vive su gente.

Getsemaní más que un barrio es una comunidad que transita día a día la vida llenándola de color, compañerismo y solidaridad. No descubrí esto solo caminando sus callecitas, no tengo los sentidos tan entrenados ni los oídos tan curiosos de charlas ajenas; lo descubrí gracias a Luis.

Un poco de casualidad, una noche me hospedé en un hostel del barrio. Llegué tarde y no salí porque quería descansar, pero en la sala había una cartelera y uno de los papeles anunciaba “Getsemaní Free Walking Tour”. Lo comenté en voz alta y escuché una voz argentina que venía del sillón: “No te voy a adelantar nada, pero andá”. Así que agendé el plan para la siguiente tarde que tuviera libre.

El tour sale a las 10:00 y a las 16:00 desde la Plaza de la Trinidad. Es la plaza más conocida del barrio donde se alza su Catedral.

Luis tenía una gorra blanca que llevaba el nombre de su tour. Él vivió siempre en el barrio, ahora sigue allí pero con su esposa, su hijo, sus hermanos y las familias de sus hermanos. Me contó que es normal que tanta gente viva en una misma casa porque los impuestos en Cartagena son tan altos que una familia sola no puede afrontar el gasto. Él cree que es porque el Gobierno busca que los originarios vendan sus propiedades a grandes cadenas hoteleras.

Del tour no quiero explayarme mucho, solo lo justo para que les pique el bichito y quieran ir. Fueron horas espectaculares de recorrer las calles y conocer su historia. Ver sus plazas, su arte urbano, sus estatuas, fachadas, parques y personas.

En Getsemaní hay historias. Hay colores, olores, animales, pero sobre todo hau historias que sorprenden y conectan en cada esquina.

Hoy la gente del barrio recibe muchas ofertas de compra de sus viviendas por parte de capitales extranjeros. Ante la tentación del dinero, muchos deciden vender, pero esto provoca gentrificación, es decir, la gente originaria es desplazada a otros lugares y de a poco la cultura e identidad del lugar se van perdiendo entre ofertas gastronómicas gourmets, agencias de tours y hoteles boutique. Por eso hay vecinos que trabajan para cuidar el estilo y pertenencia del barrio, que trabajan para y por el lugar. Uno de ellos es Luis.

calles de Getsemani

Se notan los vínculos en sus calles. Por todos lados hay chicos jugando a la pelota, señores jugando ajedrez en la vereda, señoras tomando jugo en sillones. Si a alguien le falta algo, sabe que puede ir y buscarlo en la casa de su vecino. Todos se conocen, todos se respetan, todos se cuidan y ayudan. Como, por ejemplo, Cacho. Cacho vivía en la calle y se drograba mucho. La comunidad junto plata y le ofrecieron ayudarlo a rehabilitarse. Él aceptó y mientras estaba en su tratamiento lo visitaban. Hoy vive en un bar emblemático del barrio, donde hay un mural que retrata en fotos los rostros de cada uno de los vecinos; además hace changas para poder mantenerse activo.

La vida en Getsemaní es en comunidad, por eso este no es un tour más, es una experiencia, es compartir por un rato la vida.

Mi recorrido terminó en casa de Luis, charlando en la vereda de fútbol y viajes, de Argentina y Colombia, con su hijo y su esposa, tomando un jugo dulce.

No dejen de ir a conocer a Luis si andan por Cartagena. Estoy segura de que terminan felices, con ganas de no irse y seguir charlando horas y horas con la brisa de la noche soplando en la vereda.

Teléfono de Luis: +57 304 574 2412

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