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Mi primera visita a Nueva York

Mi primer viaje a los Estados Unidos tenía como destino principal Washington, cosa que les conté en el posteo sobre mi viaje al DC, pero no podía irme de Norteamérica sin visitar Nueva York. Durante toda mi adolescencia había soñado con caminar por la 5ta y por Broadway, así que no podía desperdiciar la oportunidad.

De Washington a Nueva York hay 4 horas de viaje en micro o un poquito menos en auto (en este posteo te cuento mi roadtrip en mi segunda visita). El trayecto del micro estuvo lleno de barrios como los de las películas: casas similares con los típicos porches en altura, aros de basquet y graffities.

Creo que la gran conclusión del viaje es que los directores de cine, escenógrafos y realizadores, logran plasmar muy bien los ambientes del país en sus películas. Todo lo que vi me hizo sentir adentro de un largometraje: desde los cestos de basura hasta los edificios.

Cargadas con tres valijas gigantes, dos mochilas y una carry-on, Sofi y yo llegamos a nuestra visita express a la gran manzana. Solo íbamos a estar por tres días ya que eran los que ella podía tomarse en su trabajo y yo ya tenía que volver a Argentina.

LLegamos bastante más temprano de la hora de check-in del hostel, por lo que, así como estábamos fuimos a un Subway pequeñito en el que con suerte cabíamos nosotras y nuestros bártulos. Dicen que es mejor malo conocido que bueno por conocer y en esa circunstancia de cansancio, atolondramiento, euforia y hambre la ley aplicaba al cien por cien.

Mientras comíamos surgió, creo que, sin ánimos de desmerecer el resto del viaje, la anécdota más importante e increíble de todas. Una de esas historias que sé que le voy a contar a cada persona nueva que conozca, a mis hijos y a mis nietos porque la emoción que implicó para mi fue de otro nivel.
Estábamos sentadas en la barra a mitad de nuestros sándwiches mientras organizábamos el cronograma de las actividades que íbamos a hacer en nuestra corta estadía en la espectacular jungla de cemento que es Nueva York.

Sofi estaba con su celular consultando las obras del fin de semana en Broadway. Cuando finalmente decidimos ir por Cinderella, un musical interpretado por la cantante Carly Rae Jepsen y  la actriz Fran Drescher, de “La Niñera”, una ventana emergente apareció en su pantalla con una publicidad de la obra The Cripple of Inishmaan en la que el protagonista, según el pop-up (nunca quise tanto a las publicidades como en ese momento) era Daniel Radcliffe, sí, el protagonista de Harry Potter.

Ambas somos potterheads de pies a cabeza, fanáticas máximas de la saga escrita por J.K Rowling. Realmente no podíamos creer lo que leíamos. Nos pasábamos de mano a mano el celular para cerciorarnos de que realmente era él quien actuaba. Caímos en la cuenta de que existía la posibilidad de ver actuar en vivo y en directo al actor que encarnó al personaje de nuestra infancia y adolescencia. Estábamos emocionadas, exaltadas, queríamos dejar todo en ese instante en el hostel y correr hacia el teatro.

Así fue. Dejamos lo más rápido que pudimos las cosas en el hostel, del que voy a hablar después, y literalmente corrimos hasta el teatro para confirmar la veracidad del anuncio.

El Cort Theater queda en la 138 West y 48th street. Una cuadra antes ya veíamos las fotos de Daniel en la marquesina. Gritamos de emoción en la calle y entramos alborotadas a sacar nuestras entradas. La señora de la boletería se reía de la situación: le contamos que éramos argentinas, que realmente amábamos a Radcliffe y no podíamos creer que teníamos la posibilidad de verlo. Nos vendió dos entradas muy baratas y nos dijo, para aumentar nuestra alegría, que al terminar la función, todos los actores salían a saludar, sacarse fotos y firmar autógrafos con la gente. Como comentario de cierre, dijo entre risas que Daniel era muy simpático y siempre se quedaba hasta el final.

Por ahora voy a dejar abierta la historia y pasaré a relatar el resto del día, las horas previas a la mejor anécdota de mi vida.

Nos hospedamos por un costo accesible en el Chelsea International Hostel. Nuestra habitación era privada con baño compartido. La única desventaja era que solamente había escaleras pero el resto estuvo muy bien. Los cuartos, baño y espacios comunes eran sencillos y limpios. La terraza era muy linda y el desayuno completo: café, yogurt, jugo, bagels, mermelada y queso.

Salimos a recorrer Nueva York, esta vez con ánimos de conocerla. Obviamente nuestro primer destino fue Broadway Av, con sus carteleras gigantes, luces, nombres de actores de primera línea. Caminamos hasta llegar al Times Square.

Nueva York es brillante, realmente deslumbra. Hay demasiada información pero no llega a molestarte porque esa es su esencia. La ciudad tiene vida propia, movimiento y velocidad.

Decidimos ir al Madame Tussauds Museum. La entrada es bastante cara pero la experiencia es muy divertida. Las figuras de cera están muy bien logradas y las escenografías también. Sale de lo común al poder interactuar con los objetos y pasar a formar parte de esta expresión del arte. Desde Brad Pitt o La Roca hasta Obama o el Papa Juan Pablo II, la cantidad de personalidades de renombre internacional es asombroso.

Volviendo al relato, cada vez se acercaba más la hora de la función y por lo ansiosas que estábamos decidimos encaminarnos hacia el teatro. Una vez adentro descubrimos que nuestras ubicaciones eran maravillosas, aún hoy sostenemos que la señora de la boletería nos hizo un regalo. Estábamos en un palco lateral, donde solamente había seis asientos y a un nivel muy cercano al escenario, difícil creer que realmente costaban lo que habíamos pagado.

La obra fue fantástica. Todo el elenco rompió el escenario con un acento británico exquisito. Vimos a Daniel actuar en vivo y en directo sin poder creer que realmente lo estábamos viendo.

Cuando salimos, esperamos al lado de una puerta y tras 15 minutos, él apareció. Se acercó a la valla, nos saludó. Le contamos que eramos de Argentina, nos agradeció por ir a verlo, nos firmó autógrafos, agarró la cámara de Sofi y se sacó una foto con nosotras. Debo admitir que estaba tan nerviosa que me dijo: “Ok, wait, where is your name?” porque lo único que hacía yo era repetir entre grititos sofocantes y llanto contenido “Can you please sing this for me?“.

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Nos fuimos a dormir maravilladas, sin poder creer lo que habíamos vivido.

El día siguiente lo aprovechamos desde temprano para recorrer porque ya teníamos entradas para otra obra de teatro a la noche.

El primer destino fue la Estatua de la Libertad. Sofi ya había ido y me aseguró que no valía la pena llegar hasta la isla que contiene la escultura, sino verla desde un paseo en barco. La verdad es que confié y salí ganando. Tomamos el Staten Island Ferry que es gratuito, la Estatua se ve de lejos pero no me arrepiento. Es más chicas de lo que esperaba y no dice mucho. Sin dudas el viaje en el ferry pudiendo ver Nueva York desde el agua fue lo mejor de la experiencia.

A la vuelta caminamos por la costa hasta el Puente de Brooklyn. Se convirtió en uno de los lugares que más me gustaron de la ciudad. La vista que ofrece es asombrosa y su estructura es imponente.

Tomamos el metro, que resulta difícil las primeras veces pero una vez que se entiende la lógica del up-town/down-town resulta sencillo (en este posteo te cuento sobre la tarjeta que debes utilizar), y visitamos la Trinity Church a la que llegamos de casualidad buscando el 9/11 Memorial.

Tras pagar un bono contribución y pasar por numerosos detectores de metales y procedimientos de seguridad, accedimos al  homenaje que es frío, fuerte y triste. Las cascadas enmarcadas en mármol negro, el agua que cae hacia abajo, las rosas en los nombres de los cumpleañeros. Hasta el aire tiene una carga emocional pesada. No podía evitar pensar en la gente que estaba caminando por las calles aledañas cuando el atentado ocurrió, ver como una pesadilla se torna parte de la realidad.

Lo que más me gustó del lugar fue una bandera del país formada con los nombres de las victimas que se encontraba en la entrada, y un árbol que sobrevivió intacto a la caída de las torres.

Aclaración: este relato es de varios años atrás, cuando todavía no estaba el Museo del 9/11. En 2019 volví a visitar el predio y ya no hay puntos de control de seguridad ni hay que pagar bono contribución para ingresar. Solo se abona la entrada al museo y al mirador del One World.

Desde ahí fuimos para el lado China Town que me recordó mucho a Once Retiro. Un híbrido entre los dos barrios porteños; con manteros, puestos de chucherías y vendedores que a los gritos ofrecen cada vez por menos dinero sus mercaderías. Un tanto decepcionada me fui hacia Little Italy, bastante más pintoresco, con restaurantes que abarcan casi todas las veredas; olor a salsas y pizza que inunda la calle y flores en casi todos los alfeizares de las ventanas. Elegimos un lugar y nos sentamos a comer, por primera vez en nuestra corta estadía, comida no rápida: un calzone.

Felices por nuestra elección tomamos el metro para llegar hasta el Central Park. Es tan inmenso y laberíntico que nos fue imposible recorrerlo entero. Constantemente se necesita mirar un mapa porque son muchos los senderos, pasajes y calles. Además siempre te topas con algo que te llama la atención y te desvía del camino original que buscabas seguir. Pasamos por canchas de beisbol; el lago donde Blair de Gossip Girl, le da de comer a los patos cuando está triste; el homenaje de Imagine a John Lennon, en dónde encontramos a un chico sentado en un banco tocando Here comes the sun con una guitarra criolla; y el famoso y pintoresco puente.

Nuestra siguiente parada fue en la Grand Central Terminal, la estación de trenes. Su arquitectura deslumbra, es realmente hermosa, al igual que la New York Public Library, dónde las escaleras de mármol te invitan a subir y bajar admirando los retratos enormes que cuelgan de las paredes.

5 avenida

Caminamos por el Upper East Side con sus edificios elegantes y calles prolijas y luego por la famosa 5th Ave. donde se encuentran los locales de las primeras marcas del mundo de la moda como Louis Vuitton, Chanel o Fendy. Sobre la misma avenida se encuentra la imponente St. Patrick Cathedral, pero estaba en restauración. Entramos a conocer su arquitectura neo-gótica realizada en mármol entre los andamios.

Justo en frente se encuentra el Rockefeller Center por lo que aprovechamos la parada y sacamos algunas fotos. El tiempo no nos daba para poder subir al mirador. Quedó pendiente para una próxima visita.

Desde ahí nos dirigimos al Longacre Theatre a ver la obra Of Mice and Men, interpretada por James Franco, actor de “127 horas” y “Spider-Man”, y Leighton Meester, actriz de “Gossip Girl”. Fue una puesta en escena muy divertida y fluida. A la salida, nos quedamos a esperar a que salieran para poder tomarnos fotos con ellos. El cholulaje es lo nuestro.

Comimos en un Mc Donald’s de una calle poco transitada que fue lo único que encontramos abierto de camino al hostel, previo pasar a saludar a Idina Menzel, la famosa actriz de Broadway, que se encontraba firmando autógrafos a la salida de su obra.

El local de comidas rápidas tan famoso en Argentina, deja mucho que desear en el país del norte. La limpieza es nula y en algunas mesas había gente pasada de alcohol durmiendo. De todas formas debo admitir que la visita al local que se encuentra frente al Times Square no fue tan mala. La higiene era un poco mejor.

El viaje llegó a su fin y solamente puedo realizar una crítica, que en nuestro país también sucede pero al no ser turista y no viajar a diario con la cantidad de equipaje que llevaba en ese momento, no suelo notarlo. El 98% de las estaciones de metro no cuenta con ascensores, cosa que dificulta mucho a la hora de trasladarte con tres valijas, dos mochilas y una carry-on.

Tomé mi vuelo directo de Aerolíneas Argentinas desde el JFK, tal como a la ida. Llegando a mi terminal por el tren interno del aeropuerto y pasando antes a comer mi American Subway Sandwich de despedida.

Entre abrazos y un par de lágrimas me despedí de Sofi, compré algunas golosinas en un local de la sala de embarque y esperé hasta tomar mi vuelo.

¿Cómo viajamos?

En metro. Se pueden sacar tickets o usar una tarjeta. Es difícil de entender hasta que le agarras la mano al Uptown – Downtown.

¿A qué famosos vimos y por qué?

Daniel Radcliffe, James Franco, Leighton Meester, Morgan Freeman, Idina Menzel. En Broadway hay obras con actores de primera linea, por eso pudimos verlos. En el caso de los primeros tres fuimos a sus obras, en cuanto a Morgan lo vimos entrando al teatro y a Idina a la salida de su función.

¿Qué comimos?

Subway fue la base del viaje. Mc Donald’s, aunque no lo recomiendo. Restaurante en Little Italy Starbucks (always a good idea).

¿Dónde compramos?

H&M, Forever 21. American Eagle. Toys R Us (es buenísima, llené bolsas de regalos para mi sobrino)

¿Qué museos visitamos?

Madame Tussauds.

¿Qué nos quedó sin hacer?

Las estatuas de Alicia en el País de las Maravillas en el Central Park. El MoMa. Subir al Empire State y al Rockefeller Center (pero los vimos desde abajo) y ver un musical.

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