Islas Ballestas
Destinos Resto del mundo

Paracas, otro pueblo pesquero en mi colección

Paracas es un pueblo de pescadores de la costa oeste de Perú. En un costado está el mar, la rambla, el puerto, al otro los hoteles, hostales y restaurantes; y un poquito más atrás, las casas de los locales.

Como todo pueblo costero, Paracas me enamoró. Tengo un amor profundo y sin sentido con los muelles. No descifré nunca qué es lo que me parece tan fascinante de ellos. Pueden estar en lagos, ríos, lagunas o mares, pero la escena que se forma me deja muda. Los tablones de madera que parecen llevarte al infinito, el horizonte, los barcos amarrados en espera a salir a conocer el mundo. Debe ser que yo también me siento así, que soy un barquito amarrado en un lugar con ansias de recorrer todas las aguas.

Siempre que llego a un lugar como este reflexiono mucho más. Una tarde en Paracas, mientras novio buscaba una agencia para hacer un tour, me senté en la rambla a contemplar lo que tenía en frente. Las gaviotas volaban, algunos patos paseaban por la orilla, los pelícanos se posaban en los barcos. El agua estaba calma, la brisa daba en la cara. Mire el horizonte y lloré porque faltaba poco para que el viaje terminara. “No quiero volver”, le dije a novio cuando me miró. Y es que el sentimiento era ese: no querer volver a la rutina, al vivir por inercia. Confirmé una vez más que mi cuerpo y mi vida necesitan salir, conocer, caminar, recorrer, oler, probar, más allá de mi día a día en una ciudad.

Pero bueno, dejando de lado mi cursilería, que necesitaba compartir con ustedes ya que es motivo por el cual volvería una vez más a Paracas, les cuento qué pueden hacer en el pueblo y porqué es una gran parada a visitar.

En su calle principal existen infinitos hospedajes, es un pueblo muy preparado para recibir turistas. Hoteles, hostales, hosterías. Nuestra casa por esos días fue Paracas Backpackers House. Es un hostel muy lindo atendido por sus dueños. Tiene una cocina amplia y bien equipada, patios con mesas y hamacas, agua caliente, wifi, habitaciones privadas y compartidas, baños privados y compartidos. Además ofrecen tours y alquileres de bicicletas. No podemos quejarnos de nuestra estadía, fue muy relajada. Tiene una excelente relación precio/calidad.

En cuanto a la comida, que es un gran motor en nuestros viajes, descubrimos que los precios eran más altos que en Huacachina. Al ser un pueblo pesquero, toda su rambla está repleta de restaurantes que ofrecen menús marítimos, sin embargo, son muy costosos. A nosotros no nos gusta demasiado el pescado por lo que conseguir otro tipo de comida accesible fue bastante difícil, por eso voy a recomendarles 3 lugares muy buenos, baratos y de gran servicio:

Cafetería al lado del Paracas Backpackers Houseno recuerdo su nombre pero es una cafetería vidriada con vinilos negros en sus paredes. La chica que atiende es muy amable, hasta dejó que novio cambiara de canal la televisión para ver el partido de Boca. Se especializan en desayunos y meriendas, pero también tienen unos muy ricos sandwiches calientes por buen precio.

Misk’i: es una pizzeria con estilo surfer-hippie a la que va toda la juventud, sus meseros son viajeros que están de paso y es parada obligatoria de los grupos de Peru Hop. La pizza es INCREIBLE, sí, en mayúscula. Hay mucha variedad y es MUY rica. Además se especializa en tragos.

Lobo fino: acá encontramos un menú criollo, es decir, no marítimo. Lo bueno de los menús, como conté en otros posteos, es que se puede probar comida tradicional del lugar por bajo costo y quedar muy satisfecho. En este caso tuvimos suerte y las dos opciones de menú incluían comida que no habíamos probado todavía, además, la bebida podía ser cualquier gaseosa, cosa poco frecuente ya que siempre incluye Inca Cola o un jugo natural. En fin, nos pedimos dos menús para probar todo y quedamos fascinados, comimos: pollo broaster, arroz chaufa y sopa a la minuta. Mucha cantidad, muy rápido el servicio, excelente calidad, bajo costo.

En cuanto a qué hacer en el pueblo, como ya conté, Paracas es chiquito, sin embargo, tiene dos atractivos turísticos muy importantes: la reserva natural de Paracas y las Islas Ballestas.

Islas Ballestas

Las llaman las Galápagos de los pobres. Después de investigar mucho teníamos sentimientos encontrados: por un lado, todos decían que no podíamos irnos sin hacer el tour; por otro, mirábamos imágenes y no terminábamos de llenarnos de ganas. Al final, decidimos ir. Nosotros contratamos el servicio que ofrecía Peru Hop, pero hay muchísimas agencias de turismo que ofrecen el recorrido, como Civitatis.

Es muy importante chequear antes si es temporada de lobos o no, ya que son el mayor atractivo del lugar y nosotros tuvimos la mala suerte de ver solo 5. En época de apareamiento, dicen, la costa de las islas se llenan de lobos con sus crías. Nos quedamos con las ganas de ver eso.

Nuestro tour fue un paseo en lancha por un mar MUY picado, ya que había temblado en Lima. El guía que nos tocó fue malísimo, eso es pura suerte. Se olvidaba de replicar en español lo que intentaba decir en un inglés muy atravesado y no se escuchaba al final del barco.

Las islas son formaciones rocosas a las que no se puede desembarcar. Desde el barco podés apreciar la fauna del lugar. Como dije, los lobos son el mayor atractivo, pero también hay pingüinos, arañas de mar y muchas aves.
No volvería a hacer el viaje, quizás hasta me arrepienta un poco de hacerlo. 

Reserva natural de Paracas

Playa roja

Hay muchas formas de visitarla: areneros, cuatriciclos, micros, combis, bicicleta o remises; todas las agencias de turismo ofrecen la visita y depende la opción es el costo.

Nuestra primera impresión nos dejó con más ganas. Fuimos con el micro de Perú Hop, bajamos en algunos miradores, sacamos fotos y volvimos. Duró menos de 1 hora en total. Pero por nuestra investigación, sabíamos que había mucho más para ver.

Decidimos ir en areneros y contratamos el servicio en Paracas Peru SRL.

El paquete incluía un guía que iba en cuatriciclo y un arenero para que vayamos nosotros. Uno debía conducir, el otro iba de acompañante. Es muy divertido. Manejar por el desierto, las dunas, mirar el atardecer, el mar pacífico rompiendo en la costa. Fue una gran decisión.

Nuestro guía, esta vez, fue excelente. Era un chico venezolano que estaba viajando y hacía un tiempo había decidido quedarse en Paracas. Nos llevó a visitar playas y miradores que no habíamos visto. Nos mostró fósiles de hace más de 30 millones de años, nos contó la historia del lugar, nos mostró la playa roja, y nos llevó a un lugar que a mi me fascinó: una playa en la que la arena está repleta de caracoles y conchas marinas. Caracoles de los más lindos, de colores, de los que giran y no encontramos en las costas Argentinas. Hay tantos, pero tantos, que no podía dejar de mirar el suelo de lo encantada que estaba.

Sin dudas volvería a Paracas, por sus caracoles, por su costa, por sus aves y por sus barcos amarrados. Volvería por la brisa en la cara, la tranquilidad de pueblo y la comida abundante. Me quedo con el recuerdo de su paz, su descanso y su sana diversión.
Ojalá muchos más la descubran, pero de a poquito, sin abrumarla, para que nunca pierda su encanto de pueblo costero, quedado ahí, a la espera de los viajeros.


Civitatis también ofrece unos tours muy divertidos para la reserva

YAPA– Durante nuestro viaje en Paracas seguimos probando Brownies con helado. Esta vez lo hicimos en Misk’i y lamentamos decir que preferimos mucho su pizza antes que su postre. Pueden ver el puntaje que obtuvo en el destacado de instagram. Además, en las historias finales del destacado de Perú pueden ver nuestro recorrido en arenero y como novio agarraba todos los pozos de la arena para que yo gritara.

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