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Recorrido por el Valle Sagrado: Ollantaytambo, Maras, Moray y Pisac

A pocos días de viajar leímos en muchos blogs la recomendación de dormir en Ollantaytambo. Todavía no entendíamos bien las distancias y creíamos que nos convenía visitar el pueblo durante el día mientras nos hospedábamos en Cuzco, pero un poco por el mal estar de novio y otro poco por curiosidad, a la vuelta desde la hidroeléctrica a Cuzco, decidimos bajar y quedarnos.

El valle sagrado de los incas está compuesto por las poblaciones que se encuentran entre Písac y Ollantaytambo. Es decir Sacsayhuamán, Qenko, Tambomachay, Písac, Moray, Maras, Ollantaytambo y Chinchero. Para el turismo estos recorridos se dividen en dos: City tour (Sacsayhuamán, Qenko, Tambomachay y se le agrega PukaPukara y Qorikancha) y Valle Sagrado (Písac, Ollantaytambo, Maras, Moray y Chinchero).

Hay muchas combinaciones para visitar los pueblos y depende de la cantidad de días que se disponga; nosotros tuvimos que dejar afuera Chinchero por falta de tiempo.

Ollantaytambo fue nuestro primer acercamiento al valle sagrado. Es un pueblo con la historia viva. No solamente están las ruinas principales sino que por donde mires hay rastros de antaño. Gracias a decidir pasar la noche allí pudimos levantarnos temprano y disfrutar tranquilos de cada lugar.

Miguel fue nuestro anfitrión. Él es el dueño del Inka Khawarina Tambo, un hotel chico pero confortable, el único inconveniente que tuvimos fue que no había agua caliente debido a un problema con el tanque.

El desayuno fue magnífico y especial para recuperar fuerzas, todo casero y delicioso: frutas, jugos, café, leche, panes, mermeladas. Como fanáticos de la comida esto nos sumó mil puntos.

Lo más lindo del lugar es que se encuentra entre montañas, en tierras que anteriormente fueron de los ancestros de Miguel. Luego de desayunar, nos llevó a recorrer los alrededores. Pasamos por un molino de la época de la conquista y llegamos hasta una tumba inca con restos humanos.

Después de recorrer el sitio arqueológico principal, que tiene la entrada incluida en el boleto turístico que les comenté en este posteo, caminamos por la plaza, algunas calles de alrededor y nos pusimos en búsqueda de un remis que nos llevara a realizar el recorrido por los otros puntos.

El beneficio de ir con el remis es que conoces a lugareños, funciona como una suerte de tour privado, manejas tus tiempos y es más económico.

Nosotros hablamos con varios en la plaza y finalmente nos decidimos por uno muy simpático que nos ofrecía una hora de espera en cada lugar haciendo el siguiente recorrido:
Ollantaytambo —> Moray
Moray —> Maras
Maras —> Ruinas de Písac
Ruinas de Písac —> Feria de Písac
Feria de Písac —> Cuzco

Nos cerraba por todas partes ya que hacíamos a tiempo para llegar a nuestro anterior hospedaje en Cuzco, agarrar nuestras mochilas y partir a la estación de micros para seguir nuestro recorrido al sur.

En Moray encontramos uno de los lugares más impactantes del viaje. Se encuentra a 3.500 msnm y se llega por un camino de subidas muy pintoresco. Según diferentes investigaciones, Moray fue un lugar de experimento agrícola. Los incas aprovecharon los surcos que provocaron diferentes meteoritos para crear terrazas circulares con un sistema de riego que les permitía jugar con las temperaturas y generar micro-climas en cada andén. La vista de la zona desde la altura es impresionante, la perfección y la persistencia en el tiempo.

Las salineras de Maras son un paisaje diferente. Dejamos de lado las ruinas y nos encontramos con la ladera de una montaña llena de pequeñas piletas inundadas que permiten la extracción de diferentes tipos de sal. Es uno de los cuatro lugares en el mundo en donde se extrae sal rosa. Para visitar el lugar hay que abonar un ticket de aproximadamente 7 S/ en la entrada ya que hoy en día pertenece a una empresa que emplea a familias de la zona.

Maras

A Písac llegamos después de un rato largo de viaje. El cielo se iba poniendo cada vez más oscuro mientras subíamos la montaña que nos llevaría a al complejo arqueológico. El lugar está dividido en dos zonas: la antigua, de la época incaica; y la nueva, de la época colonial. Tiene grandes terrazas, puntos panorámicos y caminos de piedra que llevan de una a otra construcción.

Tuve la suerte de que estaba desolado, muy poca gente lo recorría así que disfruté a mi tiempo, saqué todas las fotos que quise y contemplé durante un rato los rayos cayendo en el valle.

Al mercado bajamos con lluvia, cada cinco minutos paraba entonces los comerciantes armaban y desarmaban sus puestos con rapidez. Eramos los únicos recorriendo los pasillos de la feria y todos nos ofrecían sus productos. Nos habían comentado que era extremadamente económico pero no nos pareció tanto. Lo notamos similar a otros lugares y hasta había productos más baratos en la entrada de las ruinas y en la feria de Aguas Calientes. Lo que sí pudimos practicar bastante acá fue nuestro talento para el regateo.

Sin dudas, antes o después de ir a Machu Picchu, las ruinas y los pueblos del Valle Sagrado son un complemento imperdible si el objetivo de tu viaje es conocer la cultura y la historia del lugar.

Si prefieren tener armado el itinerario con tiempo, les pueden servir los tours de Civitatis que son super completos! (de hecho ofrecen ruinas que no llegué a visitar)


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