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Recorrido por Perú en 15 días

Machu Picchu fue siempre mi sueño. Al conocer a novio, encontré en él a alguien que compartía las mismas ganas que yo de pisar las tierras incas. Finalmente en mayo 2018 cumplimos esa meta y llegamos a la ciudadela.

Si bien nuestro objetivo era Machu Picchu y sin duda fue lo que más nos gustó del viaje, también encontramos en Perú muchísimos lugares increíbles, que ni siquiera sabíamos que existían: desiertos, oasis, ruinas. Cada rincón tiene su atractivo. Todo me dejó fascinada: la comida, los olores, las flores.

Mi ruta por Perú en 14 días

1. Lima (2 días)
2. Cuzco (2 días)
3. Aguas Calientes y Machu Picchu (3 días)
4. Ollantaytambo, Moray, Maras y Pisac (1 día)
5. Puno: Uros y Taquille (1 día)
6. Huacachina (2 días)
7. Paracas (2 días)
8. Lima (1 día)

Buggies en Huacachina

Hicimos la ruta al revés de casi todos los viajeros, pero teníamos un porqué: nuestra entrada a Machu Picchu fue nuestro punto de partida para la organización del viaje. Era nuestra prioridad así que decidimos realizar primero ese destino y evitar estar a las corridas con el tiempo.

Nosotros teníamos ganas de conocer la ciudadela y el Huayna Picchu pero sacamos las entradas con poca antelación y solo conseguimos para Machu Picchu montaña. Finalmente no subimos así debido a problemas de salud de #novio, pero no me arrepiento ya que eso nos permitió recorrer la ciudadela de dos formas y llegar a más lugares.

Las rutas del itinerario

Lima

Pensamos bastante en ir o no a Lima. Mucha gente nos decía que valía la pena, que tenía partes muy lindas, pero no terminábamos de convencernos. Finalmente lo hicimos cuando el vuelo que conseguimos muy barato nos llevaba a la ciudad capital.

Para conseguir el vuelo estuvimos realizando búsquedas en SkyScanner durante mucho tiempo y programamos alertas diferentes para que nos notificaran cuando hubiera una baja o suba importante en los costos. Armamos búsquedas de las siguientes rutas para mayo, que era el mes más económico:

Buenos Aires –> Lima / Lima –> Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires –> Cuzco / Cuzco –> Buenos Aires
Montevideo –> Lima / Lima –> Montevideo
Montevideo –> Cuzco / Cuzco –> Montevideo

Al tener varias opciones en mente teníamos mayor margen para algún vuelo que nos pudiera convencer en costo y tiempos.
Finalmente, la alerta llegó una mañana: había un vuelo directo desde Montevideo a Lima operado por LATAM por aproximadamente $5.000 ars. (Actualmente el dolar subió mucho en Argentina por lo que si lo pensamos a precio actual serían unos $6.500 / $7.000). No lo dudamos y lo sacamos, nos parecía una ganga comparado a los precios que habíamos visto anteriormente. Además, ambos somos socios del programa LATAM Pass por lo que sumamos algunas millas.

Cuzco

Después de 2 días en Lima tomamos un avión de LC Peru hacia Cuzco. El pasaje también lo sacamos por SkyScanner ya que la app nos permitía ver la diferencia de precio por día, empresa y horarios. Sacamos un vuelo por la mañana que nos convencía bastante para poder aprovechar el día en Cuzco
Nosotros tenemos la costumbre de siempre buscar opiniones de otros usuarios antes de comprar una excursión, estadía en hotel o pasaje en algún transporte y así lo hicimos con las aerolíneas. LC Perú tenía buenas y malísimas recomendaciones, al igual que Viva Air Peru. Ambas eran económicas pero terminamos decidiéndonos por la primera, apostando al low-cost, y la verdad es que nos sorprendió ya que salió a tiempo, el vuelo fue perfecto y la tripulación muy amable.

Aguas Calientes y Machu Picchu

Para ir de Cuzco a Aguas Calientes optamos por la combi a la hidroeléctrica y el trekking. La otra opción es el tren pero por diferencia de divisas estaba fuera de nuestro alcance.

Hay muchos servicios de transporte hasta la hidroeléctrica y lo importante es dejar todo asentado y claro por adelantado. Nuestro transfer ida y vuelta nos costó 50 soles a cada uno. Hay más económicos si volves al día siguiente de irte, pero nos parecía una locura volver a caminar luego de realizar Machu Picchu, por lo que elegimos quedarnos dos noches en Aguas Calientes.

Nuestra experiencia no fue la mejor, contratamos una agencia que subcontrataba a otras y el viaje de vuelta fue un infierno. Es muy importante llegar con al menos 20 minutos de anterioridad a la hora pactada en la hidroeléctrica ya que sino, suelen vender tus asientos.

El viaje son 6 horas en caminos sinuosos, algunas veces de ripio y precipicio. Los conductores conocen el camino a la perfección pero si sufrís de vértigo te recomiendo ir del lado del pasillo. En el viaje se suelen realizar 3 paradas: una para desayunar, una para ir al baño y una para almorzar.

Aguas Calientes

Cuando llegas a la hidroeléctrica vas a encontrarte con mucha gente en tu misma situación. Ahí empieza la caminata. Hay atajos por la montaña, que los choferes suelen decirte que no los tomes, pero son muy recomendables ya que no hay peligro alguno y acorta bastante camino. En nuestro caso siempre estuvimos rodeados de gente. El paisaje es hermoso, no cambiaría esa experiencia por nada. Vas por la ceja de la selva, con un río al costado, cruzando puentes y túneles.

Lo único: tener cuidado con el tren. La gente es muy solidaria y suele avisar cuando está viniendo para que esperes a cruzar el puente o tomes una salida. El tren también suele ir despacio cuando ve que hay mucha gente en las vías y toca bocina con mucha anterioridad para que lo escuches.

A Machu Picchu decidimos subirlo en combi también. Cuesta 12 usd y sale desde la entrada de Aguas Calientes. #Novio no estaba muy bien de salud y preferimos guardar las energías para nuestras horas de recorrido en la ciudadela (estuvimos 7 horas adentro). Lo que sí hicimos, y recomendamos fuertemente, fue bajar a pie. El camino vale la pena, es hermoso pero agotador. No es mucho tramo pero sí muchos escalones. Por eso, quizás, subirlo es un poco arriesgado, ya que te podés encontrar muy cansado antes de entrar al Machu Picchu.

Ollantaytambo, Moray, Maras y Pisac

Habíamos leído que Ollantaytambo era hermoso y decidimos pasar la noche. Fuimos con la misma combi de la hidroeléctrica. El camino obligado pasa por el pueblo y el chofer nos permitió bajar ahí en lugar de volver a Cuzco. Al día siguiente, tras recorrer sus ruinas, contratamos un taxi en la plaza (hay mucha oferta), que nos llevó por 120 soles a Moray, Salineras de Maras, ruinas y mercado de Pisac y finalmente nos dejó en nuestro hospedaje de Cuzco.

Puno

Antes de ir a Aguas Calientes habíamos dejado nuestras mochilas grandes en el hospedaje de Cuzco. Fuimos a buscarlos y partimos para la estación de micros de Peru Hop.

Peru Hop es una empresa de micros que te permite el servicio hop-in hop-off, es decir, te arman un itinerario ideal pero vos reservas por medio de un código tu lugar en ese micro o en el siguiente, esto te permite flexibilidad para quedarte más días en algún lugar.

Decidimos contratarlo por comodidad, la otra opción eran los micros locales. Pero Peru Hop, a pesar de ser más caro, nos aseguraba los horarios, nos daba descuentos y ayudaba en la búsqueda de hospedajes, nos brindaba excursiones que se encontraban incluidas en el ticket, nos recomendaba lugares para comer y nos facilitaba el acceso a diferentes tours. Además en cada micro viajaba un guía que nos contó la historia de cada lugar que visitábamos.

Nuestra elección fue “Cuzco a Lima – sin el Cañón” – esto quería decir que nuestro itinerario nos llevaría así: Cuzco – Puno – Huacachina – Paracas – Lima.

El trayecto de Cuzco a Puno nos llevó toda la noche, por lo que ahorramos en hospedaje. A la mañana, muy temprano, llegamos a Puno. Nos llevaron a un hotel que tenía convenio con Peru Hop donde pudimos utilizar el baño, la ducha, el wifi, los sillones y tomar un desayuno por 10 soles, antes de ir a la excursión de las islas de los Uros y Taquile. Para ir ahí contratamos una excursión de todo el día que nos buscó en charter por el hotel, nos llevó a la estación fluvial, nos embarcó, recorrió los dos destinos y nos devolvió en charter al hotel.

Huacachina

El trayecto de Puno a Huacachina era el más largo. Casi un día en el micro. A pesar de esto se nos pasó rápido. El omnibus hizo una parada de pocos minutos en Arequipa para cambiar de transporte, luego una en Nazca para subir a una torre y observar 3 líneas y finalmente en otro lugar de Nazca para almorzar.

Paracas

Paracas era nuestro último destino sin conocer llegamos allí con Peru Hop. El viaje es corto, son poco más de 2 horas desde Huacachina.

Nuevamente Lima

Tras una parada en Chincha para una excursión MUY interesante de la que les contaré en otro posteo, llegamos a Lima en nuestro último bus de Peru Hop.


Dentro de las ciudades

Si bien nuestra primera opción siempre era caminar para poder conocer a fondo cada lugar, en algunos lugares las distancias eran muy largas o estábamos demasiado cansados para hacerlo a pie. En esos casos recurrimos a UBER o a taxis. Lo importante del taxi es preguntar con anterioridad el costo y ver si nos es viable, siempre se puede regatear un poco.

Podes conocer más sobre este viaje en los posteos del blog

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