Cartagena
Destinos Resto del mundo

Un recorrido por Cartagena, la heroica

Quienes me conocen saben de mi amor por las construcciones coloniales, por ende, Cartagena con sus combinaciones de colores, paredes gruesas y balcones repletos de flores, me llamaba a conocerla cada vez que veía una fotografía de sus calles angostas o sus plazas repletas de bares.

Cuando bajé del avión me sofocó su calor. Cartagena es húmeda y calurosa, quizás hasta un poco más de lo que imaginaba del caribe. El sol es intenso a toda hora pero se esconde temprano, es por eso que la noche es tan famosa. Luces, música, gente caminando por todos lados, disfrutando de la brisa que llega desde el mar al atardecer.

Antes de viajar comencé a investigar, como siempre, dónde me iba a hospedar, qué iba a hacer, dónde quería ir… Mis prejuicios, incrementados tras hablar con dos amigos colombianos, me llevaron a no querer hospedarme en algún lugar que no fuera dentro de la muralla. Hoy, habiendo visitado el lugar, recomiendo tanto el casco histórico y San Diego como Getsemaní.

¿En qué época viajar?

A mediados de diciembre comienza la temporada alta y dura hasta febrero. Cartagena es destino de turismo nacional e internacional y como les comenté en este posteo, es difícil conseguir alojamiento si se tiene algunas pretensiones, por lo que lo ideal es reservar con anticipación.

Generalmente no recomiendo las temporadas altas, pues soy más amante de la tranquilidad y de ver los escenarios reales de cada lugar, pero tambén soy fanática de la Navidad y a partir de diciembre Cartagena se viste de luces y villancicos, no apto grinchs.

Una noche muy importante es la del 7 de diciembre, en la espera del 8, día de la Virgen María. Esa noche, conocida como “la noche de las velitas”, las familias salen a las puertas de sus casas a prender velas en la vereda en honor a la Inmaculada Concepción y como bienvenida a la Navidad.

Hospedaje

La Heroica fue nuestro lugar de base, sabíamos que desde allí visitaríamos varios lugares pero siempre volveríamos. Hicimos lo que solemos hacer, llevar mochilas más pequeñas para dejar las grandes en algún hospedaje de Cartagena y no cargar peso por demás. Esto fue una decisión super sabia ya que con las altas temperaturas cuesta todo un poco más.

En nuestra estadía recorrimos distintos barrios y hospedajes. Desde hostels hasta hoteles cuatro estrellas. No es que estemos locos, tenemos un gran motivo: novio sufría mucho por el calor.

Te dejo un descuento en Airbnb para tu estadía!

Nuestro primer hospedaje fue a dos cuadras de la Torre del Reloj, era una habitación privada en el Hostal Don Miguel. Lo contratamos por Airnbn y su dueño fue super simpático desde el momento en el que nos pusimos en contacto, pero la estadía no fue de lo más gloriosa y por ese motivo, al cumplirse nuestros dos días decidimos no renovar y cambiarnos de lugar. Si bien teníamos aire acondicionado, en las salas comunes había demasiado encierro; y además, debido a construcciones aledañas, tuvimos un encuentro con un pequeño roedor.

Otra noche, tras llegar tarde de Santa Marta, dormimos en Las Indias Hostel en el barrio de Getsemaní. Es un lugar que está bien. Su staff es muy atento y está siempre a disposición. Pero tampoco es para quedarse muchos días debido a que es muy chico.

En otra instancia decidimos que era hora de relajar y conocer Bocagrande, la Miami Colombiana. Terminamos reservando una habitación con baño privado en Zi One Luxury, un hotel muy lindo, con solarium, bar, piscina y desayuno buffet.

Finalmente, nuestro recorrido por hospedajes terminó en Hotel Casa La Tablada, donde nos quedamos unas tres noches. Más que contentos con la ambientación, el staff, las habitaciones, el desayuno y los espacios comunes. Tiene piscina y jacuzzis y una muy buena relación costo-calidad.

En fin, de todos los lugares que me hospedé, recomiendo el barrio San Diego. Al estar a unas cuatro cuadras de la torre del reloj evitas la muchedumbre, los ruidos y los olores. Sí, Cartagena es calurosa y en las esquinas más pobladas suele haber basura, lo que hace que los olores muchas veces se intensifiquen.

A nivel seguridad, tanto dentro de la ciudad amurallada como en el barrio de Getsemaní, nos sentimos seguros. Puede darte en un principio la sensación de que no (más si sos argentino como yo y estamos acostumbrados a tener que vivir alertas), pero los lugareños cuidan mucho al turista, ya que es quien genera una gran parte de los ingresos.

¿Qué hacer?

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

1) Lo principal es prepararse para caminar y animarse a recorrer todas sus calles y plazas. Hay muchas construcciones de colores para admirar.

Como siempre, decidimos hacer el Free Walking Tour de los Paraguas Amarillos que sale desde la Plaza Santa Teresa a las 10:00 o a las 16:00. Terminamos un poco decepcionados ya que buscábamos conocer la historia de los pueblos originarios, de los lugareños, la actualidad, y sin embargo nos encontramos con pura alabanza a España y su colonización. (Hay otras opciones de free tours o paseos en bus turístico)

De todas formas, la ciudad amurallada se puede conocer por libre. Colombia es un país en el que la gente es muy amable, risueña y cálida. Siempre están dispuestos a hablar y contarte cosas, por lo que no temas en preguntar.

2) Si sos amante del arte, podes ir directo a contemplar a la Gertrudis de Botero. Si en cambio preferís la literatura, podes conocer la Universidad donde García Márquez estudió el primer trimestre de una carrera que no terminó y la casa que nunca habitó.

3) Bocagrande también es un barrio lindo pero nada fuera de lo normal. Su playa está lejos de ser una playa caribeña, pero es la más cercana para afrontar el calor. Como su apodo lo indica, es la Miami Colombiana: puros edificios, locales de ropa, cadenas gastronómicas, hoteles de lujo. No recomendaría que se hospeden allí ya que hay que tomar un taxi para ir al centro histórico, lo que puede ser un gasto fuerte si se hace todos los días.

4) Un atractivo antiguo es el Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, una fortaleza abierta al público con miradores muy atractivos de la ciudad y túneles muy interesantes.

5) Tomar un trago o cerveza mirando el atardecer en Café del Mar es un punto obligado de cualquier visita a Cartagena. Es un bar ubicado en uno de los baluartes de la muralla y tiene la mejor locación para ver el atardecer en el mar. Hay que ir temprano, entre las 16:00 y 16:30 debido a que se llena de gente y es difícil conseguir mesa. Si bien hay mucho viento, lo mejor es sentarse contra la muralla para evitar que alguien les tape el momento mágico.

6) Aunque no seas amante de la fiesta y los boliches, es casi obligatorio que te subas a la Chiva rumbera. Nosotros no pensábamos hacerlo pero después de unos días de dormirnos muy temprano nos cansamos de escuchar lo “linda, movida, divertida” que era la noche cartagenera. Decidimos que no nos íbamos a quedar con la intriga y nos subimos a la chiva. Es un micro abierto en el que toca en vivo un conjunto vallenato, luego se escucha reggaeton y música de moda; por cada fila de asientos dan una botella de ron y de gaseosa. Recorres todo Cartagena con juegos de por medio hasta terminar en un boliche para cerrar la noche. Fue absolutamente divertido y volvería a hacerlo. Podes contratar con anticipación tu lugar.

7) Lo mejor para el final… Getsemaní. Ahí si decidimos hacer un free walking tour del que volvimos maravillados. El recorrido lo hace Luis, un vecino del barrio, y está entrenando a dos chicos más para que se sumen a ayudarlo. Sale todos los días a las 10:00 y a las 16:00 desde la Plaza de la Trinidad y siempre se adapta a los gustos del caminante. Nosotros somos muy curiosos y todo nos interesa por lo que fueron unas largas horas de caminata sin molestia, escuchando, asombrándonos y emocionándonos con la historia. El barrio fue el lugar de vivienda popular y hoy en día, declarado uno de los lugares más alegres para vivir, está sufriendo la gentrificación, cosa que puede acabar con su identidad. Acá les cuento más sobre el tema pero les dejo la intriga y las ganas sin contar mucho detalle para no arruinar la sorpresa. Si lo hacen o lo hicieron, cuéntenme, no hay manera de no volver con el corazón lleno de gratitud. (Les dejo el instagram de Luis)

Excursiones

Desde Cartagena se pueden hacer infinidad de excursiones: pasadía a Islas del Rosario o a algunas islas particulares como CholónCocolisoPirataEncanto.

También hay navegaciones para ver el planctondia de playa en Baru, manglares, paseos en barcovisitas al volcán de Totumo, etc. Es que para muchos Cartagena es el lugar de base (pero de base en serio, no como nosotros que dejábamos mochila y nos íbamos). Muchos pasan todas sus noches en Cartagena pero sus días en lugares cercanos.

Nosotros decidimos hacer solamente un tour desde la ciudad amurallada: Vivarium. Es un parque educativo dedicado a recrear biomas para anfibios. Su objetivo es poder enseñar sobre este tipo de animales. Casi ninguna agencia ofrece este tour, queda camino a Barranquilla, lo cual puede ser lejos, pero también es una buena forma de conocer otros lugares. Conseguimos ir por Vivamos Colombia, y optamos por un paquete que incluía almuerzo y tiempo en una playa cercana.

Comer y beber

Lo que más me gusta de los viajes es probar la gastronomía local. Colombia es tierra de frutas deliciosas y comí muchas en cada desayuno. Además, probé las que venden en las esquinas las señoras de trajes típicos. Son muy sabrosas, dulces y jugosas.

En cuanto a lo típico, la costa ofrece mucha variedad de pescados. No soy buena recomendando este tipo de comida y en realidad, no probé ninguno.

Si comí arroz con coco y debo decir que no me gustó ni un poco. Pero también probé los patacones, el ahogao y el suero costeño que me fascinaron. Tanto que me traje paquetes de chips de plátano y aprendí a cocinar ahogao.

Mi alimentación a veces fue a base de latas o sandwichitos comprados en los supermercados Exito y Carulla. También visité algunos restaurantes:

– Marzola Parrilla Argentina – me pareció caro y con poca variedad pero tiene una estética muy divertida.

– Cuba 1940 – me encanto! la atención fue excelente, había música en vivo y la comida era muy rica. (Recomendación: carne mechada con vegetales, plátano frito y arroz con frijoles o el pan de lechón caramelizado)

– La Tapería – muy rico, variado y cálido. (Recomiendo: el combo de tapas + tortilla + empanada. Podes elegir entre distintas tapas, las mías estaban rísimas: albondigas, salame, jamón crudo y queso azul con cereza. El postre, Crème brulée)

– El Arsenal – sin duda uno de los mejores. Gran atención, buenos tragos, ambientación y riquísimo. (Recomendación: carimañolas de queso – pedimos dos veces de lo ricas que estaban – y albondigas. Para tomar, Sweet Chilli Julep y Mojito de Lulo)

– Mistura – fuimos solo por el postre, leímos que era una locura y quisimos probar. (Recomendación: vayan y pidan la torta de Nutella)

– Plaza Majaua – la atención fue pésima pero tiene buenas promociones de hamburguesas y pizzas.

Para tomar, siempre elijo cerveza. Soy algo así como la Homero Simpson de todos mis viajes. Al volver empezamos a contabilizar con #novio y descubrimos que todos los días habíamos tomado cerveza. Mi opinión es que si bien la Club Colombia es la más consumida por los locales, y por cierto, la más cara; me pareció mejor la Aguila (a menos que ofrezcan Club Colombia roja, ahí optaría por esa).

Te invito a que leas el resto de los posteos colombianos del blog para que te empapes de uno de los lugares más alegres del mundo. Sí, con esa sensación volví, es que no hubo persona que escuchara mi acento y no preguntara cómo iba mi viaje, recomendara algún lugar o curioseara sobre mi país. Y eso la verdad es que me encanta. Para mi lo más valioso de mis viajes es la gente que me cruzo, los viajeros y los locales.

getsemani

 #Yapa, mirá las historias de mi viaje acá.

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